How Are Your Prongs?

Prongs are thin pieces of gold, silver, or platinum that are shaped like a claw and have a notched-out top to hold a gemstone in place in your ring, pendant, or earrings.

Prongs are critical to the safety of the stone, whether it's a diamond, or a synthetic birthstone, and should be checked often by an experienced jeweler. One of the first signs that there's a problem is a loose stone.

When I would check prongs, I would actually grasp the stone's girdle with a serrated tweezers and try to turn it in its setting. If it moved, we knew for sure that the prongs needed tightening at the very least. Then we'd check for wear or breakage.

There are two ways prongs can go bad:

1. They wear out.
   
2. They get caught on something and break off.
   

The unit of 4 or 6 prongs is called a crown (or sometimes, a "head") and it can be replaced completely, or its individual prongs can be replaced.

There are a few ways of repairing prongs:

• Re-tipping.  The tip of the prong always wears out first. If the remainder of the prong is still thick, just the tip can be replaced. This is the least expensive prong repair.
  
• New prong:  This is replacing the entire prong with a new one.  If more than 2 prongs in a 4-prong crown, or more than 3 prongs in a 6-prong crown need replacing, it's more economical to replace the entire crown.
  
• New crown: This is just what it sounds like. The old crown is removed from the mounting and a new one is soldered in place, and then the stone is reset.
  

PRICES

• Retipping: Retipping can cost between $10 and $25 per tip.
  
• Prong: New prongs can cost between $20 and $50 each, depending on the length and thickness.
  
• New crown: A new crown can cost between $75 and $200, depending, again, on the size and number of prongs.
  

Also, remember that platinum repairs will always cost considerably more than 14K gold.

It's a good idea to stop in your friendly neighborhood jewelers every couple of months and ask them to check your prongs and to also give your jewelry a good cleaning.  If the stone's loose, it's better to catch it early, when it can simply be tightened, rather than later, when the stone may actually fall out and then you've got real problems.

How Are Your Prongs?

Prongs are thin pieces of gold, silver, or platinum that are shaped like a claw and have a notched-out top to hold a gemstone in place in your ring, pendant, or earrings.

Prongs are critical to the safety of the stone, whether it's a diamond, or a synthetic birthstone, and should be checked often by an experienced jeweler. One of the first signs that there's a problem is a loose stone.

When I would check prongs, I would actually grasp the stone's girdle with a serrated tweezers and try to turn it in its setting. If it moved, we knew for sure that the prongs needed tightening at the very least. Then we'd check for wear or breakage.

There are two ways prongs can go bad:

1. They wear out.
   
2. They get caught on something and break off.
   

The unit of 4 or 6 prongs is called a crown (or sometimes, a "head") and it can be replaced completely, or its individual prongs can be replaced.

There are a few ways of repairing prongs:

• Re-tipping.  The tip of the prong always wears out first. If the remainder of the prong is still thick, just the tip can be replaced. This is the least expensive prong repair.
  
• New prong:  This is replacing the entire prong with a new one.  If more than 2 prongs in a 4-prong crown, or more than 3 prongs in a 6-prong crown need replacing, it's more economical to replace the entire crown.
  
• New crown: This is just what it sounds like. The old crown is removed from the mounting and a new one is soldered in place, and then the stone is reset.
  

PRICES

• Retipping: Retipping can cost between $10 and $25 per tip.
  
• Prong: New prongs can cost between $20 and $50 each, depending on the length and thickness.
  
• New crown: A new crown can cost between $75 and $200, depending, again, on the size and number of prongs.
  

Also, remember that platinum repairs will always cost considerably more than 14K gold.

It's a good idea to stop in your friendly neighborhood jewelers every couple of months and ask them to check your prongs and to also give your jewelry a good cleaning.  If the stone's loose, it's better to catch it early, when it can simply be tightened, rather than later, when the stone may actually fall out and then you've got real problems.

All about Onyx!

•What is onyx?
Onyx is a form of the quartz mineral chalcedony that occurs in many colors and in semitranslucent to completely opaque forms. The gemstone commonly called “black onyx” is chalcedony that has been dyed completely black, thereby eliminating the natural color bands that often occur in chalcedony, similar to those found in agate. Black onyx is one of the commemorative gemstones for the 7th wedding anniversary.

•Where is onyx found?
The noble stone onyx (a gemstone must surely be held in high regard to be carved into chess pieces, as is onyx!) in all its forms and colors, and in all varieties of translucency and color banding intensity, is found in every country on earth.

•Color
Natural onyx occurs in many colors. including red, orange, apricot, several shades of brown and cream, and in variations of these hues. Sardonyx, a combination of sard (a brownish-red chalcedony) and onyx, is usually the color of rust with white color banding. Black onyx, as noted above, is chalcedony dyed pure black. Other dyed varieties of onyx include the colors blue, green, and red.

•Shape
Onyx is cut and polished into beads of all shapes; carved into cameos and intaglios, cut and polished into both cabochons and flat-top, nonfaceted stones; and fashioned into figurines and chess pieces. Onyx’s striking color and smooth texture make it an especially appealing medium for carvings and figurines.

•Durability
Onyx is a hard 7 on the Mohs Scale and is a relatively tough stone to work with. It is suitable for regular wear in rings, earrings, pendants. although colored onyx with distinct banding is going to be more vulnerable to chipping because of its layered nature.

•Quality
Onyx is plentiful and affordable and its quality is therefore determined by the intensity (and personal appeal) of its color, the smoothness of its texture, and the absence of surface imperfections like cracks or pitting. Interestingly, in many cases, the “value” of a particular piece of onyx sculpture or jewelry will increase if there is obvious craftsmanship or a superior artistic element to the piece. For instance, an intricately carved, artistically superior onyx cameo will be worth more, and will be considered of higher quality, than a cameo of lesser craftsmanship. All black onyx is usually considered of equal quality as long as the color is uniform and the cutting of the stone is competent; the value of black onyx increases proportionately for the larger stones.

•Legend and lore
According to legend, onyx can relieve pain when placed on the bellies of women in labor, as well as protect its wearer from the “evil eye.” Onyx is also reputed to balance the “female energies” present in everyone, both male and female. The darker onyx stones are said to enhance the power energies of males; the lighter onyx stones are “gentler” stones and will more readily empower women than men.

•Care
Do not clean your onyx jewelry in an ammonia-based jewelry cleaner. Instead, soak it in a mild soapy solution and rinse it thoroughly under warm to hot water. Dry your onyx jewelry with a soft cloth and do not store it in direct sunlight. Also, black onyx, because of its dyed nature, should not be exposed to intense, direct sunlight or heat, immersed in chemical solutions, nor should it be worn while swimming or showering.

All about Onyx!

•What is onyx?
Onyx is a form of the quartz mineral chalcedony that occurs in many colors and in semitranslucent to completely opaque forms. The gemstone commonly called “black onyx” is chalcedony that has been dyed completely black, thereby eliminating the natural color bands that often occur in chalcedony, similar to those found in agate. Black onyx is one of the commemorative gemstones for the 7th wedding anniversary.

•Where is onyx found?
The noble stone onyx (a gemstone must surely be held in high regard to be carved into chess pieces, as is onyx!) in all its forms and colors, and in all varieties of translucency and color banding intensity, is found in every country on earth.

•Color
Natural onyx occurs in many colors. including red, orange, apricot, several shades of brown and cream, and in variations of these hues. Sardonyx, a combination of sard (a brownish-red chalcedony) and onyx, is usually the color of rust with white color banding. Black onyx, as noted above, is chalcedony dyed pure black. Other dyed varieties of onyx include the colors blue, green, and red.

•Shape
Onyx is cut and polished into beads of all shapes; carved into cameos and intaglios, cut and polished into both cabochons and flat-top, nonfaceted stones; and fashioned into figurines and chess pieces. Onyx’s striking color and smooth texture make it an especially appealing medium for carvings and figurines.

•Durability
Onyx is a hard 7 on the Mohs Scale and is a relatively tough stone to work with. It is suitable for regular wear in rings, earrings, pendants. although colored onyx with distinct banding is going to be more vulnerable to chipping because of its layered nature.

•Quality
Onyx is plentiful and affordable and its quality is therefore determined by the intensity (and personal appeal) of its color, the smoothness of its texture, and the absence of surface imperfections like cracks or pitting. Interestingly, in many cases, the “value” of a particular piece of onyx sculpture or jewelry will increase if there is obvious craftsmanship or a superior artistic element to the piece. For instance, an intricately carved, artistically superior onyx cameo will be worth more, and will be considered of higher quality, than a cameo of lesser craftsmanship. All black onyx is usually considered of equal quality as long as the color is uniform and the cutting of the stone is competent; the value of black onyx increases proportionately for the larger stones.

•Legend and lore
According to legend, onyx can relieve pain when placed on the bellies of women in labor, as well as protect its wearer from the “evil eye.” Onyx is also reputed to balance the “female energies” present in everyone, both male and female. The darker onyx stones are said to enhance the power energies of males; the lighter onyx stones are “gentler” stones and will more readily empower women than men.

•Care
Do not clean your onyx jewelry in an ammonia-based jewelry cleaner. Instead, soak it in a mild soapy solution and rinse it thoroughly under warm to hot water. Dry your onyx jewelry with a soft cloth and do not store it in direct sunlight. Also, black onyx, because of its dyed nature, should not be exposed to intense, direct sunlight or heat, immersed in chemical solutions, nor should it be worn while swimming or showering.

The Fourth "C": CARAT

What Diamond “Carat Weight” Means and How Diamonds Are Sold By Their Weight

Diamonds are identified and sold by their carat weight, which is not the same as karat, which refers to the purity of gold, as in 14 karat, 18 karat, etc. When talking about diamonds, 1 carat equals 100 points. (Helpful Tip: To clarify the concept of 100 points equaling 1 carat, think of 100 pennies equaling 1 dollar.)

Many people, including jewelers, refer to diamonds as a percentage of their overall carat weight, as in a “quarter carat,” a “half carat,” or “a three-quarter carat” stone. This is a handy shorthand for describing the general range of a diamond’s size, but you should know that a “quarter carat” diamond does not always refer to a diamond that weighs precisely 25 points.

This chart will illustrate the range of diamond weights used in the jewelry industry. Be aware, however, that no matter how a ring or a diamond is described (“this wedding band has a third of a carat total weight of diamonds”) you should always be told the precise weight -- in points -- of the diamond or diamonds you are purchasing.


DIAMOND CARAT WEIGHT = DIAMOND WEIGHT RANGE

Melees 0.001 - 0.04 Ct.
1/20 Carat 0.05 - 0.09 Ct.
1/10 Carat 0.10 - 0.16 Ct.
1/6 Carat 0.17 - 0.19 Ct.
1/5 Carat 0.20 - 0.24 Ct.
1/4 Carat 0.25 - 0.32 Ct.
1/3 Carat 0.33 - 0.37 Ct.
3/8 Carat 0.38 - 0.49 Ct.
1/2 Carat 0.50 - 0.74 Ct.
3/4 Carat 0.75 - 0.87 Ct.
7/8 Carat 0.88 - 0.99 Ct.
Full Carat 1 Carat (100 points)

The Fourth "C": CARAT

What Diamond “Carat Weight” Means and How Diamonds Are Sold By Their Weight

Diamonds are identified and sold by their carat weight, which is not the same as karat, which refers to the purity of gold, as in 14 karat, 18 karat, etc. When talking about diamonds, 1 carat equals 100 points. (Helpful Tip: To clarify the concept of 100 points equaling 1 carat, think of 100 pennies equaling 1 dollar.)

Many people, including jewelers, refer to diamonds as a percentage of their overall carat weight, as in a “quarter carat,” a “half carat,” or “a three-quarter carat” stone. This is a handy shorthand for describing the general range of a diamond’s size, but you should know that a “quarter carat” diamond does not always refer to a diamond that weighs precisely 25 points.

This chart will illustrate the range of diamond weights used in the jewelry industry. Be aware, however, that no matter how a ring or a diamond is described (“this wedding band has a third of a carat total weight of diamonds”) you should always be told the precise weight -- in points -- of the diamond or diamonds you are purchasing.


DIAMOND CARAT WEIGHT = DIAMOND WEIGHT RANGE

Melees 0.001 - 0.04 Ct.
1/20 Carat 0.05 - 0.09 Ct.
1/10 Carat 0.10 - 0.16 Ct.
1/6 Carat 0.17 - 0.19 Ct.
1/5 Carat 0.20 - 0.24 Ct.
1/4 Carat 0.25 - 0.32 Ct.
1/3 Carat 0.33 - 0.37 Ct.
3/8 Carat 0.38 - 0.49 Ct.
1/2 Carat 0.50 - 0.74 Ct.
3/4 Carat 0.75 - 0.87 Ct.
7/8 Carat 0.88 - 0.99 Ct.
Full Carat 1 Carat (100 points)