New Stones

Woo-hoo! Tons of new Oregon sunstone!!! Gorgeous stuff...

These are available for custom orders; drop me a line if you're interested. (I have more photos available of most of these if you'd like to see other views.)

Oregon sunstone; 5.5mm (0.55 carats)

Oregon sunstone; 5.5mm (0.55 carats)

Oregon sunstone; 5mm (0.47 carats)

Oregon sunstone; 8mm (1.53 carats)

Oregon sunstone; 6mm (0.68 carats)

Oregon sunstone; 5mm (0.52 carats)

Oregon sunstone; 6mm (0.83 carats)

Oregon sunstone; 5mm (0.42 carats)

Oregon sunstone; 5mm (0.43 carats)

Oregon sunstone; 4.5mm (0.31 carats)

New Stones

Fair trade Tashmarine, 8mm
(I don't know what I'm going to do with this - I thought I was getting an 8mm round and I don't know how to set this shape, but it's so pretty, I don't want to send it back.)

Fair trade Tashmarine, 6mm
(The color is closer to that of the first stone; I had trouble capturing it in this photo.)

Fair trade garnet, 6mm
(I also got some 5mm stones.)

New Stones

California green tourmaline, 5mm

California green tourmaline, 5mm

Nevada turquoise -
Top left: 15mm x 24mm (6.5mm dome)
Top right: 15mm x 20mm (4mm dome)
Bottom left: 19mm x 23mm (8mm dome)
Bottom right: 15mm x 23mm (6mm dome)

California poppy jasper -
Top: 19.5mm x 34mm (6.5mm dome)
Bottom left: 20mm x 26.5mm (5.5mm dome)
Bottom right: 17mm x 26.5mm (5mm dome)

California lemon opal (very rare) -
Left: 11.5mm x 16mm (4.5 mm dome)
Right: 11.5mm x 14.5mm (5.5 mm dome)

Minnesota binghamite (aka American Tiger Eye; also quite rare) -
14.5mm x 31mm (5mm dome)

Saving my favorite for last...
Arizona gem chrysocolla with sagenite crystals (again, very rare) -
Top left: 17mm x 20mm (3.5mm dome)
Top right: 16mm x 22mm (5mm dome)
Bottom: 18.5mm x 23mm (8mm dome)

As usual, if you see something you love, shoot me an email and we can chat about a custom order. :-)

New Stones

Fair trade Zultanite, 6mm (1.35 carats)

Fair trade Zultanite, 8mm (2.26 carats)

Perfect Diamond For the Perfect Love

Diamonds are associated with the finest things in life, and a diamond engagement ring is possibly the most significant diamond purchase that you will make during your lifetime. Browsing jewelry stores and catalogs can be overwhelming, with each one guaranteeing that they offer the best quality selection. So how can you be sure that you are getting a great diamond in that designer ring?

Finding the perfect beautiful ring for the woman that you love can be a difficult job if you don’t know what you are looking for. When you propose you want her to know that only the finest, superior quality diamond ring is good enough for her, and you should also take care to find a designer ring that suits her style and taste to make the ring more personal.

When it comes to diamonds size matters, but is only a part of what you should look for in an engagement ring. The physical size, or weight, of a diamond is measure in carats, but just because a diamond is large doesn’t mean that it is high quality, or even attractive. In fact, many of the largest stones that you see on display in jewelry counters may not even be real, or natural diamonds. To truly appreciate a diamond you need to take into consideration the other 4 ‘c’s of diamonds, namely cut, clarity and color.

The finest diamond designer rings will display exquisite cuts, a high level of clarity, and a pure color. However, if you are looking for a cheap engagement ring you can opt to choose a higher grade of one element over another to keep the price of your designer ring within your budget. For example, if you are happy with a diamond that has flaws ‘only visible under close inspection’ then you will be able to afford a larger carat. A diamond with a cut that is not quite perfect might be technically less valuable but could create an unusual fire and sparkle to enhance the clarity of the gem.

Each piece of diamond jewelry that you purchase should come with a certificate to show you exactly what the rating is for each ‘c’. The beauty of buying a diamond designer ring online is that a good site will often display that useful information right alongside each beautiful ring. Some may even let you search by settings for your engagement ring, by diamond type or by price range letting you find a precious engagement ring within your budget.

Modern designer rings now also offer choices in other gemstones for engagement rings in tantalizing color combinations such as diamond and tanzanite rings or pink saphire and diamond rings. Settings for engagement rings can also vary, ranging from modern designer styles to classic and traditional settings.

The important this is to choose a diamond ring not based on size or price alone, but to choose a designer ring that you feel she will love and treasure forever, because that is was an engagement ring symbolizes.

Jewels in Sin City, Las Vegas 2008

By Richard W. Wise ©2008 Welcome to Las Vegas, the only town that I know of where a jewelry show with 3,000 exhibitors can be hidden behind a bank of slot machines. Unlike Tucson where the sprawling gem shows take over half the town, the flagship JCK Show set up at the Venetian Hotel boasts 3100 exhibitors’ and 20,000 buyers and is virtually invisible in the glitz. The jewelry

All about Onyx!

•What is onyx?
Onyx is a form of the quartz mineral chalcedony that occurs in many colors and in semitranslucent to completely opaque forms. The gemstone commonly called “black onyx” is chalcedony that has been dyed completely black, thereby eliminating the natural color bands that often occur in chalcedony, similar to those found in agate. Black onyx is one of the commemorative gemstones for the 7th wedding anniversary.

•Where is onyx found?
The noble stone onyx (a gemstone must surely be held in high regard to be carved into chess pieces, as is onyx!) in all its forms and colors, and in all varieties of translucency and color banding intensity, is found in every country on earth.

•Color
Natural onyx occurs in many colors. including red, orange, apricot, several shades of brown and cream, and in variations of these hues. Sardonyx, a combination of sard (a brownish-red chalcedony) and onyx, is usually the color of rust with white color banding. Black onyx, as noted above, is chalcedony dyed pure black. Other dyed varieties of onyx include the colors blue, green, and red.

•Shape
Onyx is cut and polished into beads of all shapes; carved into cameos and intaglios, cut and polished into both cabochons and flat-top, nonfaceted stones; and fashioned into figurines and chess pieces. Onyx’s striking color and smooth texture make it an especially appealing medium for carvings and figurines.

•Durability
Onyx is a hard 7 on the Mohs Scale and is a relatively tough stone to work with. It is suitable for regular wear in rings, earrings, pendants. although colored onyx with distinct banding is going to be more vulnerable to chipping because of its layered nature.

•Quality
Onyx is plentiful and affordable and its quality is therefore determined by the intensity (and personal appeal) of its color, the smoothness of its texture, and the absence of surface imperfections like cracks or pitting. Interestingly, in many cases, the “value” of a particular piece of onyx sculpture or jewelry will increase if there is obvious craftsmanship or a superior artistic element to the piece. For instance, an intricately carved, artistically superior onyx cameo will be worth more, and will be considered of higher quality, than a cameo of lesser craftsmanship. All black onyx is usually considered of equal quality as long as the color is uniform and the cutting of the stone is competent; the value of black onyx increases proportionately for the larger stones.

•Legend and lore
According to legend, onyx can relieve pain when placed on the bellies of women in labor, as well as protect its wearer from the “evil eye.” Onyx is also reputed to balance the “female energies” present in everyone, both male and female. The darker onyx stones are said to enhance the power energies of males; the lighter onyx stones are “gentler” stones and will more readily empower women than men.

•Care
Do not clean your onyx jewelry in an ammonia-based jewelry cleaner. Instead, soak it in a mild soapy solution and rinse it thoroughly under warm to hot water. Dry your onyx jewelry with a soft cloth and do not store it in direct sunlight. Also, black onyx, because of its dyed nature, should not be exposed to intense, direct sunlight or heat, immersed in chemical solutions, nor should it be worn while swimming or showering.

All about Onyx!

•What is onyx?
Onyx is a form of the quartz mineral chalcedony that occurs in many colors and in semitranslucent to completely opaque forms. The gemstone commonly called “black onyx” is chalcedony that has been dyed completely black, thereby eliminating the natural color bands that often occur in chalcedony, similar to those found in agate. Black onyx is one of the commemorative gemstones for the 7th wedding anniversary.

•Where is onyx found?
The noble stone onyx (a gemstone must surely be held in high regard to be carved into chess pieces, as is onyx!) in all its forms and colors, and in all varieties of translucency and color banding intensity, is found in every country on earth.

•Color
Natural onyx occurs in many colors. including red, orange, apricot, several shades of brown and cream, and in variations of these hues. Sardonyx, a combination of sard (a brownish-red chalcedony) and onyx, is usually the color of rust with white color banding. Black onyx, as noted above, is chalcedony dyed pure black. Other dyed varieties of onyx include the colors blue, green, and red.

•Shape
Onyx is cut and polished into beads of all shapes; carved into cameos and intaglios, cut and polished into both cabochons and flat-top, nonfaceted stones; and fashioned into figurines and chess pieces. Onyx’s striking color and smooth texture make it an especially appealing medium for carvings and figurines.

•Durability
Onyx is a hard 7 on the Mohs Scale and is a relatively tough stone to work with. It is suitable for regular wear in rings, earrings, pendants. although colored onyx with distinct banding is going to be more vulnerable to chipping because of its layered nature.

•Quality
Onyx is plentiful and affordable and its quality is therefore determined by the intensity (and personal appeal) of its color, the smoothness of its texture, and the absence of surface imperfections like cracks or pitting. Interestingly, in many cases, the “value” of a particular piece of onyx sculpture or jewelry will increase if there is obvious craftsmanship or a superior artistic element to the piece. For instance, an intricately carved, artistically superior onyx cameo will be worth more, and will be considered of higher quality, than a cameo of lesser craftsmanship. All black onyx is usually considered of equal quality as long as the color is uniform and the cutting of the stone is competent; the value of black onyx increases proportionately for the larger stones.

•Legend and lore
According to legend, onyx can relieve pain when placed on the bellies of women in labor, as well as protect its wearer from the “evil eye.” Onyx is also reputed to balance the “female energies” present in everyone, both male and female. The darker onyx stones are said to enhance the power energies of males; the lighter onyx stones are “gentler” stones and will more readily empower women than men.

•Care
Do not clean your onyx jewelry in an ammonia-based jewelry cleaner. Instead, soak it in a mild soapy solution and rinse it thoroughly under warm to hot water. Dry your onyx jewelry with a soft cloth and do not store it in direct sunlight. Also, black onyx, because of its dyed nature, should not be exposed to intense, direct sunlight or heat, immersed in chemical solutions, nor should it be worn while swimming or showering.

All about Jade!

•What is jade?
“Jade” is an umbrella term used to describe two specific minerals, jadeite and nephrite. In 1863, the French chemist Augustine Damour identified the two types of jade, although the differences between jadeite and nephrite had been known to the Chinese since the mid-18th century. Jadeite is the more valuable, and also the rarer of the two, as well as being the harder of the two varieties of the gemstone. The finest jadeite is called Imperial jade. Jadeite is the jade most often used for jewelry today.

Nephrite is not as hard as jadeite, but its interlocking crystalline structure, ironically, makes it a little stronger, and nephrite is the variety of jade most often selected for carvings, figurines, and was even used for weapons (such as daggers and clubs) in ancient times.

•Where is jade found?
Jadeite is found in Myanmar (formerly Burma), Russia, Japan, Guatemala; and California in the United States. (The finest jadeite comes from Myanmar.) Nephrite is found in China, Siberia (dark green), Taiwan, New Zealand, Switzerland, Brazil, British Columbia, Australia (black), Poland, Germany, India, Canada, Zimbabwe (dark green), Mexico; and in Alaska, California, and Wyoming in the United States.

•Color
Jadeite occurs in a wide range of colors, including the complete range of greens (including speckled green), lavender, brown, honey-yellow, white, black, and grey. Nephrite is mostly green, with gray, black, or brown undertones. Nephrite also occurs in a completely gray or black variety, and also in a grayish-white form sometimes referred to as “mutton-fat” jade and especially favored for carving figurines.

•Shape
Both forms of jade are cut and polished into beads, cut into cabochons, and carved into cameos, intaglios, and figurines. Jade is occasionally cut into the faceted gemstone shapes such as round brilliant or marquise, although cabochon is the more popular and more traditional style for jade.

•Durability
Jadeite has a hardness of 7 on the Mohs Scale; nephrite, a 6 1/2, and both are extremely tough and excellent to work with. Both carve well, set well, and can handle the jeweler’s torch with little if any problems. Sometimes, extremely porous jadeite may be impregnated with jeweler’s wax to stabliize extremely fragile natural “tunnels” in the stones (a common in the industry) and the larger cabochons treated in this manner may occasionally exhibit some pitting under prongs, but this can be prevented by having the stones periodically checked by a professional and repositioning the stone if necessary. Overall, jade is a very durable stone that can be worn safely under almost all circumstances.

•Quality
The quality of both types of jade is determined by:

• the intensity and uniformity of a stone’s body color (dark green is considered the highest quality, followed by lavender, red, yellow, white, and black)
• the number of flaws, cracks, spots, and blotchy areas (the fewer, the better)
• its texture, polish and finish (a smooth surface with a fine “grain” and a brilliant luster are a higher quality than a coarse, rough surface and a dull finish)
• a semi-transparent or extremely translucent visual appearance (light should seem to “enter” the stone as compared to stopping flatly at the surface of a nonreflective stone).

•Legend and lore
How jade received its name is a fascinating story. When Spanish conquistadors invaded Mexico in the 16th century, they discovered that the natives were wearing jade to cure kidney problems, so the conquistadors called the beautiful stone piedra de ijada, which translates to “stone of the loins.” Interestingly, the ancient Romans also believed that jade was a cure for inflammation of the kidneys, known as “nephritis.” Thus, the Romans called jade by the Latin term lapis nephriticus, which eventually was shortened and Anglicized to nephrite. Jade’s range of “natural” colors has long been associated with the bounties of nature, and many believe that the stone is a gift from God.

Jade has various mystical and spiritual properties attributed to it, including inner purity, higher consciousness, intellectual superiority, the art of music, and the virtue of loyalty. It also represents good fortune and abounding health and many wear it as an emblem of these attributes. Jade is also reputed to stimulate optimism and promote understanding of the opposite sex. Also, white jade can purportedly cure intestinal trouble, while black jade is believed to imbue the wearer with strength.

•Care
Clean your jade jewelry in a mild soapy solution (don’t soak it more than a few minutes) and rinse it well under warm water. Avoid exposihg jade to excessive heat, as some forms of color-treated jade may fade; also avoid chemicals such as ammonia-based jewelry cleaner and harsh chemical cleaners.

All about Jade!

•What is jade?
“Jade” is an umbrella term used to describe two specific minerals, jadeite and nephrite. In 1863, the French chemist Augustine Damour identified the two types of jade, although the differences between jadeite and nephrite had been known to the Chinese since the mid-18th century. Jadeite is the more valuable, and also the rarer of the two, as well as being the harder of the two varieties of the gemstone. The finest jadeite is called Imperial jade. Jadeite is the jade most often used for jewelry today.

Nephrite is not as hard as jadeite, but its interlocking crystalline structure, ironically, makes it a little stronger, and nephrite is the variety of jade most often selected for carvings, figurines, and was even used for weapons (such as daggers and clubs) in ancient times.

•Where is jade found?
Jadeite is found in Myanmar (formerly Burma), Russia, Japan, Guatemala; and California in the United States. (The finest jadeite comes from Myanmar.) Nephrite is found in China, Siberia (dark green), Taiwan, New Zealand, Switzerland, Brazil, British Columbia, Australia (black), Poland, Germany, India, Canada, Zimbabwe (dark green), Mexico; and in Alaska, California, and Wyoming in the United States.

•Color
Jadeite occurs in a wide range of colors, including the complete range of greens (including speckled green), lavender, brown, honey-yellow, white, black, and grey. Nephrite is mostly green, with gray, black, or brown undertones. Nephrite also occurs in a completely gray or black variety, and also in a grayish-white form sometimes referred to as “mutton-fat” jade and especially favored for carving figurines.

•Shape
Both forms of jade are cut and polished into beads, cut into cabochons, and carved into cameos, intaglios, and figurines. Jade is occasionally cut into the faceted gemstone shapes such as round brilliant or marquise, although cabochon is the more popular and more traditional style for jade.

•Durability
Jadeite has a hardness of 7 on the Mohs Scale; nephrite, a 6 1/2, and both are extremely tough and excellent to work with. Both carve well, set well, and can handle the jeweler’s torch with little if any problems. Sometimes, extremely porous jadeite may be impregnated with jeweler’s wax to stabliize extremely fragile natural “tunnels” in the stones (a common in the industry) and the larger cabochons treated in this manner may occasionally exhibit some pitting under prongs, but this can be prevented by having the stones periodically checked by a professional and repositioning the stone if necessary. Overall, jade is a very durable stone that can be worn safely under almost all circumstances.

•Quality
The quality of both types of jade is determined by:

• the intensity and uniformity of a stone’s body color (dark green is considered the highest quality, followed by lavender, red, yellow, white, and black)
• the number of flaws, cracks, spots, and blotchy areas (the fewer, the better)
• its texture, polish and finish (a smooth surface with a fine “grain” and a brilliant luster are a higher quality than a coarse, rough surface and a dull finish)
• a semi-transparent or extremely translucent visual appearance (light should seem to “enter” the stone as compared to stopping flatly at the surface of a nonreflective stone).

•Legend and lore
How jade received its name is a fascinating story. When Spanish conquistadors invaded Mexico in the 16th century, they discovered that the natives were wearing jade to cure kidney problems, so the conquistadors called the beautiful stone piedra de ijada, which translates to “stone of the loins.” Interestingly, the ancient Romans also believed that jade was a cure for inflammation of the kidneys, known as “nephritis.” Thus, the Romans called jade by the Latin term lapis nephriticus, which eventually was shortened and Anglicized to nephrite. Jade’s range of “natural” colors has long been associated with the bounties of nature, and many believe that the stone is a gift from God.

Jade has various mystical and spiritual properties attributed to it, including inner purity, higher consciousness, intellectual superiority, the art of music, and the virtue of loyalty. It also represents good fortune and abounding health and many wear it as an emblem of these attributes. Jade is also reputed to stimulate optimism and promote understanding of the opposite sex. Also, white jade can purportedly cure intestinal trouble, while black jade is believed to imbue the wearer with strength.

•Care
Clean your jade jewelry in a mild soapy solution (don’t soak it more than a few minutes) and rinse it well under warm water. Avoid exposihg jade to excessive heat, as some forms of color-treated jade may fade; also avoid chemicals such as ammonia-based jewelry cleaner and harsh chemical cleaners.

Silver!

The Queen of Metals

Silver is special...and a litany of superlatives is needed to do justice to its wonders: Of the three precious metals -- gold and platinum being the other two -- silver is the most abundant, the most lustrous, the most reflective, the least expensive, the “whitest of the white metals,” the easiest to work with, and the very first of the precious metals to be used to make jewelry.

Silver was being used in Egypt over 5500 years ago and silver headbands from prehistoric times have been found in Spain.

There are many references to silver in the Bible, one of the most notable being a comparison of the words of the Lord to purified silver in Psalms 12:6: “The words of the Lord are pure words, as silver tried in a furnace of earth, purified seven times.”

For all its popularity as jewelry, silver’s most important use is as monetary currency. Fully two-thirds of the world’s population use silver as money.

Silver has the same hardness as gold, around 2 1/2 on the Mohs Scale and, like gold, silver can be hammered so thin light will pass through it.

The leading producers of silver are the United States, Mexico, Canada, Peru, Russia, and Australia and each year, the United States uses 15 million troy ounces of silver for jewelry.

How Sterling Silver Got Its Name

Sterling silver is 92.5% silver and 7.5% alloy, usually copper, nickel and zinc. For decades, German silversmiths refined silver for the English, adding alloys to pure silver to make a stronger, brighter metal that was then used in England to make tableware, drinking vessels, and, of course, jewelry. The English called the Germans “Easterlings” because as a people they had settled east of Great Britain. German silver, thus, became known as “Easterling” silver and eventually the “ea” was dropped and the metal became known simply as “sterling silver.” The Germans’ “recipe” for sterling silver survives to this day.

Silver: A Shining Fashion Star

Silver jewelry is popular around the world: Women in Egypt and India favor silver anklets; Hindu women wear silver bangles and silver toe rings; American Indian silver jewelry is enormously popular.

Silver is a wonderfully appealing luminous metal that is both affordable and precious and the world supply of silver is gigantic, thus assuring affordability and innovative design experimentation for decades to come.

Silver fits in nicely with casual fashion styles but it is versatile enough to also work beautifully with dressy, designer styles. Earrings are the best-selling category of silver jewelry, followed by neckwear. Silver bracelets with and without gemstones are a perennial favorite.

Other popular silver jewelry styles include big rings with faceted colored stones ranging from pastels to the deeper colored gems; silver chokers; satin finishes; and silver mixed with yellow gold in both 14K and 18K as accents, creating a striking two-tone effect.

Silver Linings

Silver is associated with the Moon, psychic energy, and purity. Silver also symbolizes peace, sincerity, chastity, eloquence, joy, and knowledge. The 25th wedding anniversary is known as the Silver Anniversary.

Silver!

The Queen of Metals

Silver is special...and a litany of superlatives is needed to do justice to its wonders: Of the three precious metals -- gold and platinum being the other two -- silver is the most abundant, the most lustrous, the most reflective, the least expensive, the “whitest of the white metals,” the easiest to work with, and the very first of the precious metals to be used to make jewelry.

Silver was being used in Egypt over 5500 years ago and silver headbands from prehistoric times have been found in Spain.

There are many references to silver in the Bible, one of the most notable being a comparison of the words of the Lord to purified silver in Psalms 12:6: “The words of the Lord are pure words, as silver tried in a furnace of earth, purified seven times.”

For all its popularity as jewelry, silver’s most important use is as monetary currency. Fully two-thirds of the world’s population use silver as money.

Silver has the same hardness as gold, around 2 1/2 on the Mohs Scale and, like gold, silver can be hammered so thin light will pass through it.

The leading producers of silver are the United States, Mexico, Canada, Peru, Russia, and Australia and each year, the United States uses 15 million troy ounces of silver for jewelry.

How Sterling Silver Got Its Name

Sterling silver is 92.5% silver and 7.5% alloy, usually copper, nickel and zinc. For decades, German silversmiths refined silver for the English, adding alloys to pure silver to make a stronger, brighter metal that was then used in England to make tableware, drinking vessels, and, of course, jewelry. The English called the Germans “Easterlings” because as a people they had settled east of Great Britain. German silver, thus, became known as “Easterling” silver and eventually the “ea” was dropped and the metal became known simply as “sterling silver.” The Germans’ “recipe” for sterling silver survives to this day.

Silver: A Shining Fashion Star

Silver jewelry is popular around the world: Women in Egypt and India favor silver anklets; Hindu women wear silver bangles and silver toe rings; American Indian silver jewelry is enormously popular.

Silver is a wonderfully appealing luminous metal that is both affordable and precious and the world supply of silver is gigantic, thus assuring affordability and innovative design experimentation for decades to come.

Silver fits in nicely with casual fashion styles but it is versatile enough to also work beautifully with dressy, designer styles. Earrings are the best-selling category of silver jewelry, followed by neckwear. Silver bracelets with and without gemstones are a perennial favorite.

Other popular silver jewelry styles include big rings with faceted colored stones ranging from pastels to the deeper colored gems; silver chokers; satin finishes; and silver mixed with yellow gold in both 14K and 18K as accents, creating a striking two-tone effect.

Silver Linings

Silver is associated with the Moon, psychic energy, and purity. Silver also symbolizes peace, sincerity, chastity, eloquence, joy, and knowledge. The 25th wedding anniversary is known as the Silver Anniversary.

Platinum!

Precious Platinum

Platinum has long been called the most precious of metals and the reasons it has earned that title is because of its rare and special qualities; characteristics not found in any of the other noble metals (gold and silver).

Platinum was discovered in Ecuador and Columbia before the fifteenth century. The Spaniards found large deposits of platinum in South America in 1750. By the 1920s, two-thirds of all the platinum mined was being used in the United States.

Platinum is one of the heaviest and densest substances known to man. If the identical piece of jewelry were to be made in silver and platinum, the platinum piece would weigh twice as much as the silver piece. Platinum is also the hardest of the three precious metals and is three times as durable as gold.

Platinum jewelry in the United States is either 90 or 95 per cent pure platinum. Iridium or ruthenium is often added to platinum as a strengthening alloy and to maximize platinum’s white beauty. In the United States, the abbreviations PT or plat indicate platinum; in Europe, the mark 950 (indicating 95% purity) is used to denote platinum.

In addition to its popularity for jewelry (it’s beautiful, durable, and completely hypoallergenic), platinum’s resistance to heat, rust, tarnish, and corrosion makes it perfect for use in cardiac pacemakers; as heat- and chemical-resistant lab containers; and in automobile catalytic converters.

Ten tons of ore must be mined for every ounce of platinum. (It takes three tons of ore to obtain one ounce of gold; and an astonishing 250 tons of ore to acquire a single 1-carat diamond.)

Less than 100 tons of platinum are produced each year worldwide, compared to 1,500 tons of gold.

Platinum is mined in Russia, Columbia, Alaska, South Africa, and Canada and is extremely labor intensive: It takes a full five months to process ore to pure platinum (gold takes about a month); and the polishing process for platinum takes far longer and requires more steps than does gold.

Style & Elegance

Platinum has been used for jewelry since the turn of the century, although the advent of World War II completely eliminated the use of platinum for jewelry. Why? Because platinum was declared a strategic metal by the United States government and all of the platinum produced ended up being used for electrical contacts, in heat-resistant gear, in dentistry, and as corrosion-proof wire. During World War II, even actress Mae West sold her diamond and platinum jewelry to help the war cause.

Platinum is the purest of the white metals and today is associated with luxury and elegance; although even jewelry lovers on a modest budget can wear platinum. Platinum has also become an extremely popular choice for diamond engagement rings and wedding bands; and platinum watches have become popular for the consumer (especially men) wanting a unique and special timepiece.

Another very popular fashion style today is to mix platinum with 18K yellow gold, creating a sleek and elegant two-tone look.

The platinum and diamond bow brooch -- originally popularized in the early 20th century -- is now again in fashion as a stunning accessory for both daytime wear on suits and for evening wear on gowns and dresses.

Interestingly, even though platinum is not a commemorative metal for a wedding anniversary, in Italy, platinum has been designated as the gift to give for someone’s 18th birthday. Since the 18th is unquestionably a milestone birthday, the Italian jewelry industry has decided that only platinum would do for such a momentous event!

For the Exceptional Person...

Platinum is for the jewelry lover who wants a sleek, cool, classic look. When highly polished, platinum can be as reflective as mirror; when buffed to a satin finish, the metal has a soft, silky look and feel.

Platinum is the essence of subtle style; and no precious metal brings out the brilliance of diamonds the way platinum does.

Platinum is an exceptional product of nature, and jewelry made from this glorious metal is equally notable.

Platinum!

Precious Platinum

Platinum has long been called the most precious of metals and the reasons it has earned that title is because of its rare and special qualities; characteristics not found in any of the other noble metals (gold and silver).

Platinum was discovered in Ecuador and Columbia before the fifteenth century. The Spaniards found large deposits of platinum in South America in 1750. By the 1920s, two-thirds of all the platinum mined was being used in the United States.

Platinum is one of the heaviest and densest substances known to man. If the identical piece of jewelry were to be made in silver and platinum, the platinum piece would weigh twice as much as the silver piece. Platinum is also the hardest of the three precious metals and is three times as durable as gold.

Platinum jewelry in the United States is either 90 or 95 per cent pure platinum. Iridium or ruthenium is often added to platinum as a strengthening alloy and to maximize platinum’s white beauty. In the United States, the abbreviations PT or plat indicate platinum; in Europe, the mark 950 (indicating 95% purity) is used to denote platinum.

In addition to its popularity for jewelry (it’s beautiful, durable, and completely hypoallergenic), platinum’s resistance to heat, rust, tarnish, and corrosion makes it perfect for use in cardiac pacemakers; as heat- and chemical-resistant lab containers; and in automobile catalytic converters.

Ten tons of ore must be mined for every ounce of platinum. (It takes three tons of ore to obtain one ounce of gold; and an astonishing 250 tons of ore to acquire a single 1-carat diamond.)

Less than 100 tons of platinum are produced each year worldwide, compared to 1,500 tons of gold.

Platinum is mined in Russia, Columbia, Alaska, South Africa, and Canada and is extremely labor intensive: It takes a full five months to process ore to pure platinum (gold takes about a month); and the polishing process for platinum takes far longer and requires more steps than does gold.

Style & Elegance

Platinum has been used for jewelry since the turn of the century, although the advent of World War II completely eliminated the use of platinum for jewelry. Why? Because platinum was declared a strategic metal by the United States government and all of the platinum produced ended up being used for electrical contacts, in heat-resistant gear, in dentistry, and as corrosion-proof wire. During World War II, even actress Mae West sold her diamond and platinum jewelry to help the war cause.

Platinum is the purest of the white metals and today is associated with luxury and elegance; although even jewelry lovers on a modest budget can wear platinum. Platinum has also become an extremely popular choice for diamond engagement rings and wedding bands; and platinum watches have become popular for the consumer (especially men) wanting a unique and special timepiece.

Another very popular fashion style today is to mix platinum with 18K yellow gold, creating a sleek and elegant two-tone look.

The platinum and diamond bow brooch -- originally popularized in the early 20th century -- is now again in fashion as a stunning accessory for both daytime wear on suits and for evening wear on gowns and dresses.

Interestingly, even though platinum is not a commemorative metal for a wedding anniversary, in Italy, platinum has been designated as the gift to give for someone’s 18th birthday. Since the 18th is unquestionably a milestone birthday, the Italian jewelry industry has decided that only platinum would do for such a momentous event!

For the Exceptional Person...

Platinum is for the jewelry lover who wants a sleek, cool, classic look. When highly polished, platinum can be as reflective as mirror; when buffed to a satin finish, the metal has a soft, silky look and feel.

Platinum is the essence of subtle style; and no precious metal brings out the brilliance of diamonds the way platinum does.

Platinum is an exceptional product of nature, and jewelry made from this glorious metal is equally notable.

Gold!

Put forth thy hand,
reach at the glorious gold.
William Shakespeare,
Henry VI, Part 2

Glorious Gold

Gold is the world’s most popular metal...and for good reason!

Gold has been with us for eons and its amazing properties make it one of the most unique and special natural creations on Earth.

Gold, often described as the “supreme raw material” is the only precious metal that combines irresistible beauty, remarkable workability, indestructibility, and rarity. Gold is so special that it has long been a symbol for all things good, including describing someone as having a “Heart of Gold,” saying something is “Good as Gold,” and, perhaps most memorably, choosing to live by the “The Golden Rule.”

Gold was the very first Christmas gift (along with frankincense and myrrh, of course), and gold was fashioned into gem-encrusted jewelry and priceless objets d'art by the ancient Egyptians. This precious metal also added glistening brilliance to the religious symbols of the Incas, and the Asante people of Africa's Gold Coast so loved crafting their intricate jewelry, that they would periodically melt down their older gold pieces to create new ones.

The Bible even mentions gold and refers to its value -- both in earthly and spiritual terms. The “talent” referred to in the Bible was actually a gold coin which weighed 8.5 grams. In the Book of Matthew, Jesus tells the parable of the King who forgave a debt of 10,000 talents owed him by one of his servants. At today’s retail prices, 85,000 grams of 14K gold would be worth approximately $2 million!

Amazingly, almost all the gold mined in the last 6,000 years is still in the possession of man. If all of this gold were shaped into a cube, it would measure only 60 feet on each side and would fit neatly beneath the Eiffel Tower. This trillion dollar cube would also fit comfortably on the deck of any modern oil tanker. There is a legend that a tiny part of Cleopatra’s crown is in every single piece of gold jewelry in existence today, and that the piece of jewelry you wear today may also contain gold from an Egyptian tomb or from King Solomon’s temple.

In the last 6,000 years, over 125,000 tons of gold has been mined on Earth and the recovery of this gold falls into two categories: before the California Gold Rush of 1848 and after the California Gold Rush. Estimates are that before 1848, only about 10,000 tons of gold had been mined. Thus, approximately 92% of the world’s gold has been produced in the past approximately 150 years. And in the past decade alone, over 2,000 tons of gold has been used each year to make gold jewelry.

Pure gold is 24 karat and is very soft, only a 2.5 - 3 on the Mohs Scale of hardness. (Pure gold is actually softer than coral, lapis, and opal on the Mohs Scale.) One ounce of pure gold can be stretched into a wire an astonishing five miles long and hammered into a sheet so thin, it would cover an area 100 square feet in size and light would pass through it. The word carat (of which the notation for gold, “karat,” is a variation) comes from the Arabic word qirat, which means bean pod. In Oriental bazaars, a carob seed was a unit of weight measurement.

In addition to its use in jewelry, gold is also used as currency; in medicine (gold shots); in the aerospace industry; in the electronics industry; and in dentistry.

True Colors

Alloys are added to pure gold to make it stronger and easier to work with, and also to change its color. Natural yellow gold can be alloyed to create white gold, pink gold, and green gold:

GOLD COLOR CHART

The alloys added to pure 24K gold

• Yellow Gold: Copper and silver. Yellow gold comprises 85% of the gold sold throughout the world.
• White Gold: Nickel, Zinc, Silver, Platinum, and Palladium. White gold symbolizes friendship and is the most important of the colored golds.
• Pink (Rose) Gold: Copper. Pink gold has become increasingly popular and looks lovely when combined with yellow or green gold.
• Green Gold: Silver, Copper, and Zinc Green gold is being used more and more with pink gold and yellow gold and is an important part of Black Hills Gold’s signature grape leaf design.

A Bunch of Karats

The alloys also reduce the amount of pure gold in the piece, and the following chart explains how different karat golds are created:

GOLD KARAT CHART

• 8K 33.3% 333 This is the minimum karat that can be called “gold” in Mexico.
• 9K 37.5% 375 This is a very popular karat gold in Ireland, and it is also the minimum karat that can be called “gold” in Canada.
• 10K 41.7% 417 This is the minimum karat that can be called “gold” in the United States.
• 12K 50% 500 12 karat was abolished in 1932 when the 14K standard was legalized, although some Black Hills gold is still manufactured in 12K.
• 14K 58.3% 585 14 karat is the most popular karat gold sold in the United States.
• 15K 62.5% 625 15 karat was abolished in 1932 when the 14K standard was legalized.
• 18K 75% 750 18 karat is the most popular karat gold sold in Italy and other European countries.
• 19.2K 80% 800 This is a popular karatage in Portugal.
• 20K 83.3% 833 This is a very high karat gold notable for its bright yellow color.
• 22K 91.6% 916 This is another very high karat gold that is popular in Asia and which is very soft due to its small amount of strengthening alloys.
• 23.76K 99% 990 This is 99% pure gold, and is a popular karatage in Hong King, China, and elsewhere in Asia.
• 24K 100% 1000 This is pure gold, with no alloys added. Jewelry is made using pure 24K gold in Turkey, India, and Asia, but it is very soft, somewhat brassy in color, and more expensive.

Gold is an incredibly popular medium for fashion jewelry and, traditionally, the most favored types of gold jewelry, in order of sales, are neckchains, earrings, charms, chain and bangle bracelets, and fashion rings, including wedding rings. It is believed that the ancient Egyptians (who thought that gold was solidified fire) were one of the first (if not the first) people to use a solid gold band as a wedding ring five thousand years ago, believing the endless circle symbolized the eternity of marriage. Today, more than 19 tons of gold are made into wedding rings each year.

The United States is the world’s largest market for gold jewelry and the variety of fashion styles and themes available boasts something for everyone’s taste!

Chains of gold

Throughout the centuries, the gold chain has been the signature jewelry item and the milestone piece chronicling the passage of cultures and civilizations. Gold neckchains, which were being worn as early as the 7th century BC, are now the most popular way to wear gold, and today, women favor rope, link, box, snake, bead, omega, mesh, stampato, and San Marco chains; while men like rope, link, Figaro, Cuban, and Mariner chains. Symbolically, a gold chain is a symbol of love: by placing a chain around the neck of a loved one, you are symbolically linking that person to you.

That’s Italian!

From couture fashions to fast cars to sleek furniture, the Italian design aesthetic is unrivaled in its ability to intrigue us. And nowhere else is the Italian appreciation of beauty more evident than in their magnificent fine-jewelry designs.
Jennifer Leventhal,
JQ Magazine, April/May 1999

Italy is the world’s indisputable leader in gold jewelry manufacturing, and the majority of QVC’s gold is crafted in Italy.

The Italian jewelry industry is 3,000 years old. In fact, wealthy Italian patrons during the Renaissance encouraged goldsmiths much the way they sponsored artists and sculptors and musicians. Today, Italy uses more than 400 tons of gold a year to make the gorgeous Italian jewelry renowned and beloved around the world. An incredible three-quarters of Italy’s jewelry output is exported to Italian jewelry lovers everywhere. Italian gold is associated with quality and antiquity, in a delicate balance with technology and new, innovative designs.

Today, a wardrobe of gold jewelry includes pins, bracelets, earrings, necklaces, clips, pendants, watches, and rings.

Gold!

Put forth thy hand,
reach at the glorious gold.
William Shakespeare,
Henry VI, Part 2

Glorious Gold

Gold is the world’s most popular metal...and for good reason!

Gold has been with us for eons and its amazing properties make it one of the most unique and special natural creations on Earth.

Gold, often described as the “supreme raw material” is the only precious metal that combines irresistible beauty, remarkable workability, indestructibility, and rarity. Gold is so special that it has long been a symbol for all things good, including describing someone as having a “Heart of Gold,” saying something is “Good as Gold,” and, perhaps most memorably, choosing to live by the “The Golden Rule.”

Gold was the very first Christmas gift (along with frankincense and myrrh, of course), and gold was fashioned into gem-encrusted jewelry and priceless objets d'art by the ancient Egyptians. This precious metal also added glistening brilliance to the religious symbols of the Incas, and the Asante people of Africa's Gold Coast so loved crafting their intricate jewelry, that they would periodically melt down their older gold pieces to create new ones.

The Bible even mentions gold and refers to its value -- both in earthly and spiritual terms. The “talent” referred to in the Bible was actually a gold coin which weighed 8.5 grams. In the Book of Matthew, Jesus tells the parable of the King who forgave a debt of 10,000 talents owed him by one of his servants. At today’s retail prices, 85,000 grams of 14K gold would be worth approximately $2 million!

Amazingly, almost all the gold mined in the last 6,000 years is still in the possession of man. If all of this gold were shaped into a cube, it would measure only 60 feet on each side and would fit neatly beneath the Eiffel Tower. This trillion dollar cube would also fit comfortably on the deck of any modern oil tanker. There is a legend that a tiny part of Cleopatra’s crown is in every single piece of gold jewelry in existence today, and that the piece of jewelry you wear today may also contain gold from an Egyptian tomb or from King Solomon’s temple.

In the last 6,000 years, over 125,000 tons of gold has been mined on Earth and the recovery of this gold falls into two categories: before the California Gold Rush of 1848 and after the California Gold Rush. Estimates are that before 1848, only about 10,000 tons of gold had been mined. Thus, approximately 92% of the world’s gold has been produced in the past approximately 150 years. And in the past decade alone, over 2,000 tons of gold has been used each year to make gold jewelry.

Pure gold is 24 karat and is very soft, only a 2.5 - 3 on the Mohs Scale of hardness. (Pure gold is actually softer than coral, lapis, and opal on the Mohs Scale.) One ounce of pure gold can be stretched into a wire an astonishing five miles long and hammered into a sheet so thin, it would cover an area 100 square feet in size and light would pass through it. The word carat (of which the notation for gold, “karat,” is a variation) comes from the Arabic word qirat, which means bean pod. In Oriental bazaars, a carob seed was a unit of weight measurement.

In addition to its use in jewelry, gold is also used as currency; in medicine (gold shots); in the aerospace industry; in the electronics industry; and in dentistry.

True Colors

Alloys are added to pure gold to make it stronger and easier to work with, and also to change its color. Natural yellow gold can be alloyed to create white gold, pink gold, and green gold:

GOLD COLOR CHART

The alloys added to pure 24K gold

• Yellow Gold: Copper and silver. Yellow gold comprises 85% of the gold sold throughout the world.
• White Gold: Nickel, Zinc, Silver, Platinum, and Palladium. White gold symbolizes friendship and is the most important of the colored golds.
• Pink (Rose) Gold: Copper. Pink gold has become increasingly popular and looks lovely when combined with yellow or green gold.
• Green Gold: Silver, Copper, and Zinc Green gold is being used more and more with pink gold and yellow gold and is an important part of Black Hills Gold’s signature grape leaf design.

A Bunch of Karats

The alloys also reduce the amount of pure gold in the piece, and the following chart explains how different karat golds are created:

GOLD KARAT CHART

• 8K 33.3% 333 This is the minimum karat that can be called “gold” in Mexico.
• 9K 37.5% 375 This is a very popular karat gold in Ireland, and it is also the minimum karat that can be called “gold” in Canada.
• 10K 41.7% 417 This is the minimum karat that can be called “gold” in the United States.
• 12K 50% 500 12 karat was abolished in 1932 when the 14K standard was legalized, although some Black Hills gold is still manufactured in 12K.
• 14K 58.3% 585 14 karat is the most popular karat gold sold in the United States.
• 15K 62.5% 625 15 karat was abolished in 1932 when the 14K standard was legalized.
• 18K 75% 750 18 karat is the most popular karat gold sold in Italy and other European countries.
• 19.2K 80% 800 This is a popular karatage in Portugal.
• 20K 83.3% 833 This is a very high karat gold notable for its bright yellow color.
• 22K 91.6% 916 This is another very high karat gold that is popular in Asia and which is very soft due to its small amount of strengthening alloys.
• 23.76K 99% 990 This is 99% pure gold, and is a popular karatage in Hong King, China, and elsewhere in Asia.
• 24K 100% 1000 This is pure gold, with no alloys added. Jewelry is made using pure 24K gold in Turkey, India, and Asia, but it is very soft, somewhat brassy in color, and more expensive.

Gold is an incredibly popular medium for fashion jewelry and, traditionally, the most favored types of gold jewelry, in order of sales, are neckchains, earrings, charms, chain and bangle bracelets, and fashion rings, including wedding rings. It is believed that the ancient Egyptians (who thought that gold was solidified fire) were one of the first (if not the first) people to use a solid gold band as a wedding ring five thousand years ago, believing the endless circle symbolized the eternity of marriage. Today, more than 19 tons of gold are made into wedding rings each year.

The United States is the world’s largest market for gold jewelry and the variety of fashion styles and themes available boasts something for everyone’s taste!

Chains of gold

Throughout the centuries, the gold chain has been the signature jewelry item and the milestone piece chronicling the passage of cultures and civilizations. Gold neckchains, which were being worn as early as the 7th century BC, are now the most popular way to wear gold, and today, women favor rope, link, box, snake, bead, omega, mesh, stampato, and San Marco chains; while men like rope, link, Figaro, Cuban, and Mariner chains. Symbolically, a gold chain is a symbol of love: by placing a chain around the neck of a loved one, you are symbolically linking that person to you.

That’s Italian!

From couture fashions to fast cars to sleek furniture, the Italian design aesthetic is unrivaled in its ability to intrigue us. And nowhere else is the Italian appreciation of beauty more evident than in their magnificent fine-jewelry designs.
Jennifer Leventhal,
JQ Magazine, April/May 1999

Italy is the world’s indisputable leader in gold jewelry manufacturing, and the majority of QVC’s gold is crafted in Italy.

The Italian jewelry industry is 3,000 years old. In fact, wealthy Italian patrons during the Renaissance encouraged goldsmiths much the way they sponsored artists and sculptors and musicians. Today, Italy uses more than 400 tons of gold a year to make the gorgeous Italian jewelry renowned and beloved around the world. An incredible three-quarters of Italy’s jewelry output is exported to Italian jewelry lovers everywhere. Italian gold is associated with quality and antiquity, in a delicate balance with technology and new, innovative designs.

Today, a wardrobe of gold jewelry includes pins, bracelets, earrings, necklaces, clips, pendants, watches, and rings.

All about Topaz!

•What is topaz?
Topaz is a form of aluminum silicate that occurs in a range of colors and which is considered a semiprecious gemstone. It is moderately priced and readily available in most colors, although the pink variety tends to be somewhat more rare, and thus, more expensive. The yellow variety of topaz, known as citrine, is used as the November birthstone; in recent years, the blue variety of topaz has replaced turquoise as the December birthstone.

•Where is topaz found?
Topaz is found in the United States, Brazil, Sri Lanka, Myanmar, the former USSR, Australia, Pakistan, Mexico, Japan, and Africa. Much of the finest quality topaz comes from Brazil.

•Color
Topaz occurs in many gorgeous shades of yellow, orange, brown, red, pink, blue, green, and also in a colorless state. There are several variations of topaz used for jewelry, including Precious Imperial and yellow/champagne topaz (both in the orange/gold family); Swiss blue topaz (a deep blue); Sky blue topaz (a pale blue that resembles aquamarine); and London blue topaz, a rich, medium shade of blue.

•Shape
Topaz is cut into all the faceted gemstone shapes, including round brilliant, oval-shaped, emerald cut, cushion-shaped, marquise-shaped, pear-shaped, and trillion. Because of its structure, topaz is rarely cut into cabochons.

•Durability
On the Mohs Scale, topaz is a high 8, which makes it a durable stone for normal wear. However, topaz can easily be chipped or cracked if struck against a hard surface. Topaz does not take well to extreme heat (it can fracture or break) and some of the paler-colored stones can fade if subjected to high temperatures.

•Quality
As with other moderately-priced, semiprecious stones, topaz is usually graded by the intensity of its color first, since it is possible to buy clean, brilliant stones for affordable prices. Thus, a desirable topaz (whether of the gold or blue family) should be bright, well-made (attractively proportioned), and not show any chips or cracks. Also, you should not be able to see any inclusions (black spots, feathers, bubbles) with the naked eye in the larger stones.

•Legend and lore
Topaz is reputed to protect its wearers from harm, bless them with pleasant dreams, and assure a peaceful passing from one life to the next. Topaz is also rumored to improve vision, improve leadership abilities, improve a wearer’s relationship with animals, help its wearers make the right decisions, allow wearers to make full use of all their talents, and encourage honesty and integrity.

•Care
All topaz can be soaked in any good commercial jewelry cleaner, or a mild detergent and ammonia solution. (Do not boil.) Rinse the piece well in hot (but not scalding) water and dry thoroughly. Do not dry your topaz with a heater or blow dryer as this can fade the colors or cause fracturing if the stone is subjected to temperature extremes.

All about Topaz!

•What is topaz?
Topaz is a form of aluminum silicate that occurs in a range of colors and which is considered a semiprecious gemstone. It is moderately priced and readily available in most colors, although the pink variety tends to be somewhat more rare, and thus, more expensive. The yellow variety of topaz, known as citrine, is used as the November birthstone; in recent years, the blue variety of topaz has replaced turquoise as the December birthstone.

•Where is topaz found?
Topaz is found in the United States, Brazil, Sri Lanka, Myanmar, the former USSR, Australia, Pakistan, Mexico, Japan, and Africa. Much of the finest quality topaz comes from Brazil.

•Color
Topaz occurs in many gorgeous shades of yellow, orange, brown, red, pink, blue, green, and also in a colorless state. There are several variations of topaz used for jewelry, including Precious Imperial and yellow/champagne topaz (both in the orange/gold family); Swiss blue topaz (a deep blue); Sky blue topaz (a pale blue that resembles aquamarine); and London blue topaz, a rich, medium shade of blue.

•Shape
Topaz is cut into all the faceted gemstone shapes, including round brilliant, oval-shaped, emerald cut, cushion-shaped, marquise-shaped, pear-shaped, and trillion. Because of its structure, topaz is rarely cut into cabochons.

•Durability
On the Mohs Scale, topaz is a high 8, which makes it a durable stone for normal wear. However, topaz can easily be chipped or cracked if struck against a hard surface. Topaz does not take well to extreme heat (it can fracture or break) and some of the paler-colored stones can fade if subjected to high temperatures.

•Quality
As with other moderately-priced, semiprecious stones, topaz is usually graded by the intensity of its color first, since it is possible to buy clean, brilliant stones for affordable prices. Thus, a desirable topaz (whether of the gold or blue family) should be bright, well-made (attractively proportioned), and not show any chips or cracks. Also, you should not be able to see any inclusions (black spots, feathers, bubbles) with the naked eye in the larger stones.

•Legend and lore
Topaz is reputed to protect its wearers from harm, bless them with pleasant dreams, and assure a peaceful passing from one life to the next. Topaz is also rumored to improve vision, improve leadership abilities, improve a wearer’s relationship with animals, help its wearers make the right decisions, allow wearers to make full use of all their talents, and encourage honesty and integrity.

•Care
All topaz can be soaked in any good commercial jewelry cleaner, or a mild detergent and ammonia solution. (Do not boil.) Rinse the piece well in hot (but not scalding) water and dry thoroughly. Do not dry your topaz with a heater or blow dryer as this can fade the colors or cause fracturing if the stone is subjected to temperature extremes.

All about Ruby!

•What is ruby?
Ruby is the red variety of gem-quality corundum. (The mineral corundum occurs in a wide range of colors, but all corundum that is not the color red is called sapphire. See the chapter on sapphire in this volume.) Ruby has long been prized as the “king of gems” and the “gem of gems” and it is one of the three natural gemstones that comprise the previously described trinity of precious stones, the other two being emerald and sapphire. (Diamond is, of course, in a category all its own!) Ruby is beautiful, extremely hard, and is one of the gemstones most well-suited for use in jewelry. Ruby is the July birthstone and is the commemorative gemstone for the 40th wedding anniversary.

•Where is ruby found?
Rubies are found in Myanmar (the finest specimens), Sri Lanka, Thailand (brownish red stones), Afghanistan, India, Kampuchea, Pakistan, Vietnam, Norway, Kenya, Tanzania; and North Carolina in the United States.

•Color
Ruby occurs in shades of red, including bright red, purplish red, brownish red and pinkish red. Usually the stones with the deeper and more consistent color throughout are considered the most attractive and are the most valuable.

•Shape
Ruby is extremely suitable for cutting into all the faceted gemstone shapes: round brilliant, oval, pear, marquise, emerald, heart, square, trillion, and fantasy. Ruby is also cut into cabochons, and some translucent forms of ruby exhibit a six-line star effect in the middle (from the presence of internal rutile inclusions) when cut as a cabochon. These gorgeous, intriguing stones are known as star rubies.

•Durability
Ruby is an exceptionally durable stone. It can stand up to polishing, boiling, ultrasonic cleaning, a jeweler’s torch, steaming, and many other treatments. It is a 9 on the Mohs Scale, meaning that only diamond is harder. Thus, rubies can be worn with confidence and can stand up to daily wear in rings, pendants, earrings, and other uses. That said, though, please always remember that any gemstone -- including ultrahard diamonds -- can chip, crack, or even fracture if struck just right. Thus, you should not wear any of your gemstone jewelry when doing anything during which you might accidentally bang the stone against a hard surface.

•Quality
The quality of ruby is determined much the way we evaluate the quality of a diamond: by its color and internal inclusions. The highest quality rubies are a deep red color and “eye clean”; i. e., there are no inclusions (flaws) visible to the naked eye. Color evaluation then scales down to fine color, good color, fair color, etc. Clarity (also sometimes referred to as quality) evaluation likewise scales down to minor inclusions, but still almost eye clean; to visible inclusions; and, ultimately, to heavily included. The large, top red, internally flawless rubies are the scarcest, the rarest, and therefore, the most valuable.

•Legend and lore
Rubies have long been thought to bring health, financial success, wisdom, and success in love to its wearers. Ruby has also been associated with passion (probably because of its fire-red color?), and some of the ancients attributed magical powers to rubies, believing that the gemstone’s red color would fade if its wearer was in danger or ill health. Ruby can also reputedly enhance the natural beauty of its wearer; and ruby can also bring a sense of joy to the wearer about being of service to others.

•Care
Ruby jewelry can be cleaned in standard jewelry cleaner, at close to boiling temperatures, and is quite resistant to scratches. Soak it in the jewelry cleaner and then rinse the jewelry well under hot water. As with most other natural gemstones, avoid extreme and drastic temperature changes; for instance, do not boil ruby or expose it to extreme heat (such as that of a blow dryer) and then run it under cold water. Other than that caution, though, ruby can be safely cleaned in cleaning solutions that night harm softer stones. (Note: As previously indicated, ruby is hard. This means that if a ruby is rubbed or scraped against a softer stone, it could actually scratch the stone. Store your ruby jewelry away from your other jewelry so the pieces do not touch each other.)

All about Ruby!

•What is ruby?
Ruby is the red variety of gem-quality corundum. (The mineral corundum occurs in a wide range of colors, but all corundum that is not the color red is called sapphire. See the chapter on sapphire in this volume.) Ruby has long been prized as the “king of gems” and the “gem of gems” and it is one of the three natural gemstones that comprise the previously described trinity of precious stones, the other two being emerald and sapphire. (Diamond is, of course, in a category all its own!) Ruby is beautiful, extremely hard, and is one of the gemstones most well-suited for use in jewelry. Ruby is the July birthstone and is the commemorative gemstone for the 40th wedding anniversary.

•Where is ruby found?
Rubies are found in Myanmar (the finest specimens), Sri Lanka, Thailand (brownish red stones), Afghanistan, India, Kampuchea, Pakistan, Vietnam, Norway, Kenya, Tanzania; and North Carolina in the United States.

•Color
Ruby occurs in shades of red, including bright red, purplish red, brownish red and pinkish red. Usually the stones with the deeper and more consistent color throughout are considered the most attractive and are the most valuable.

•Shape
Ruby is extremely suitable for cutting into all the faceted gemstone shapes: round brilliant, oval, pear, marquise, emerald, heart, square, trillion, and fantasy. Ruby is also cut into cabochons, and some translucent forms of ruby exhibit a six-line star effect in the middle (from the presence of internal rutile inclusions) when cut as a cabochon. These gorgeous, intriguing stones are known as star rubies.

•Durability
Ruby is an exceptionally durable stone. It can stand up to polishing, boiling, ultrasonic cleaning, a jeweler’s torch, steaming, and many other treatments. It is a 9 on the Mohs Scale, meaning that only diamond is harder. Thus, rubies can be worn with confidence and can stand up to daily wear in rings, pendants, earrings, and other uses. That said, though, please always remember that any gemstone -- including ultrahard diamonds -- can chip, crack, or even fracture if struck just right. Thus, you should not wear any of your gemstone jewelry when doing anything during which you might accidentally bang the stone against a hard surface.

•Quality
The quality of ruby is determined much the way we evaluate the quality of a diamond: by its color and internal inclusions. The highest quality rubies are a deep red color and “eye clean”; i. e., there are no inclusions (flaws) visible to the naked eye. Color evaluation then scales down to fine color, good color, fair color, etc. Clarity (also sometimes referred to as quality) evaluation likewise scales down to minor inclusions, but still almost eye clean; to visible inclusions; and, ultimately, to heavily included. The large, top red, internally flawless rubies are the scarcest, the rarest, and therefore, the most valuable.

•Legend and lore
Rubies have long been thought to bring health, financial success, wisdom, and success in love to its wearers. Ruby has also been associated with passion (probably because of its fire-red color?), and some of the ancients attributed magical powers to rubies, believing that the gemstone’s red color would fade if its wearer was in danger or ill health. Ruby can also reputedly enhance the natural beauty of its wearer; and ruby can also bring a sense of joy to the wearer about being of service to others.

•Care
Ruby jewelry can be cleaned in standard jewelry cleaner, at close to boiling temperatures, and is quite resistant to scratches. Soak it in the jewelry cleaner and then rinse the jewelry well under hot water. As with most other natural gemstones, avoid extreme and drastic temperature changes; for instance, do not boil ruby or expose it to extreme heat (such as that of a blow dryer) and then run it under cold water. Other than that caution, though, ruby can be safely cleaned in cleaning solutions that night harm softer stones. (Note: As previously indicated, ruby is hard. This means that if a ruby is rubbed or scraped against a softer stone, it could actually scratch the stone. Store your ruby jewelry away from your other jewelry so the pieces do not touch each other.)